Holding Patterns by Frank Bruni

from the New York Times Blog

A woman answers. I tell her I’m interested in June. She says they’re booked solid, lunch and dinner, every available day, through July 7th, and July 7th is the last day for which they’re taking reservations right now. Oh, they have a cancellation on June 6th, party of four, 10 P.M.What about a time earlier than that?

No, nothing, except for lunch tomorrow, due to a cancellation. No thanks; no can do. She says I can start calling about July 8 tomorrow, which will be May 8. But, she says, “I’d call as close to 10 A.M. as possible, because we’re usually completely booked within 15 to 20 minutes.” You have got to be kidding me. So: if you have a schedule that does not normally leave you free between 10 and 10:20 A.M. East Coast time, forget Per Se. You’ll never eat there. At least not during this millennium.